One woman's 4000 mile solo bicycle tour across the country from Yorktown, VA to Seattle, WA via the Transamerica and Northern Tier bike routes

***disclaimer: I am riding my bicycle. If I think about grammar, spellings, run-on sentences etc... I will never write this blog. Forgive me in advance....***

Thursday, June 18, 2015

Days 40-42: A century sandwiched between two Oases in the grass desert

Day 40: REST DAY AT THE OASIS IN THE GRASS DESERT - NEWTON BIKE SHOP!
Day 41: CENTURY RIDE! Newton, KS to Larned, KS (111 miles)
Day 42: Larned, KS to Bazine, KS (53.8 miles)

Ear worms:
The Eagles - One of These Nights
Alan Jackson - Remember When
Lucinda - Get Right With God (see she's in my head so much I don't even need a last name do I?!)
Madonna - Material Girl


Early morning on my century ride



Well Kansas, so far you've pretty darn amazing.  I left you all back at Newton, and mentioned I was taking a rest day there at the bike shop, but I thought I would devote more of a post to it because the place is so awesome.  Actually, in many ways it reminded me a lot of the Puget Sound Guitar Workshop in the way they have intentionally created this amazing community for touring bicyclists.  How we are given keys to the shop and stay there in the hostel they have in the back, right with all the merchandise and everything.  We are trusted to hold the community and take care of that and because we can feel that trust, we do!

THIS.  New lifelong friends hanging out at the bike shop.  
Dana, McKaylie, Catherine, Janice, me, Ruth, and Tino


Basically I had the best of both worlds.  My first night there I was by myself, got to truly unwind, watch copious amounts of Netflix and sleep till 9 AM.  9 AM!!!!  Completely undisturbed, I'm not going anywhere in the morning sleep.  It was amazing.  And then the next day, the excitement and bustle of the TransAmerica bike racers starting to come in.  The leader, Jesse Carlsson had just crossed into Kansas and heading our way!  Then the whole crew arrived - first Dana and McKaylie, then Janice and Catherine, then Tino and Ruth (who I bonded with as her stuff is all in storage too and she doesn't quite know where she is landing after the ride).  So we all just hung out in this amazing bike shop, truly the center of this extended TransAmerica bicycle community.  Now that I've ridden a couple of days away from it, I find myself missing it a great deal.  Thinking of how I have to go back just to visit them. (And Newton is a pretty cool town!)  Who knew such a great place could exist right in the "middle of nowhere" in the heartland of America.  Goes to show that one can create something pretty special anywhere if you put your mind to it. And people will respond.

So, I give you Newton Bike Shop:

Putting my mark on the Transam wall
p.s. aaaaah! my hair!!!

If you look hard enough you can find mine, Mud and Glamour and Tino and Ruth's notes on the wall

Yum (from South Korea) came in later, heading west to east.. but that didn't stop him from staying up with us to go get donuts!



AND THEN: THE CENTURY.

While I have many goals for this trip, only one might be seen as a little silly.  But I've never done a century ride before (riding 100 miles in one day) and I wanted to make it happen this trip.  Looking at the weather, it was supposed to be cloudy, slight wind from the east, and temperatures in the 70's.  I couldn't ask for a more ideal forecast.  It helped that section of the ride had no services for 60 miles.  It was now or (possibly) never to do this on the trip.  So I set my alarm for 5 AM (after all, we did stay up till well past midnight to get those donuts!) and set out.  I thought about all those transam racers, about Jesse who would be crossing my path that day, and got my "game time" mentality, Pat Summitt on my handlebar bag, always pushing me on.  (By the way if you ever need some serious motivation just Youtube "Pat Summitt motivational speech and click the first one."  Guaranteed to get it done!)

And off I went.  And I had fun doing it!  I love the wide open spaces.  I love being able to see out and see the old windmills and fields of wheat or pastures with cows, the occasional oil well pumping and squeeking in what otherwise is just me and the sounds of crickets and flies.  Speaking of flies... that was a challenge today.  For the last 50 miles, I really could not stop because when I did these nasty biting flies would swarm my legs.  And I really had to go to the bathroom!!  So let's just say I was not about to pull down the trunks with those things flying around!

A welcome sight on a 55 miles stretch of no services 


 Finally I saw a sign for a church 3 1/2 miles up the road and started peddling a little harder.  Saved by a church again.  A man was in doing some painting and I not only got a bathroom stop, I was able to idly eat some food in the comfort of the indoors.


And then, well, it was done!  I had reached Larned.  I completed my century!! I put my mind to it and it was a blast.  It got me thinking about how so many people, when I tell them what I am doing, say "oh I could never do that!"  I just want to tell them, no!  You can do it.  Whatever it is that might seem really hard.  Maybe you don't want to do it, and that's another thing entirely.  But you can do it, or at least go for it and see!  But there is no 'I could never do that.'  (okay maybe I will never hit a tennis ball like Roger Federer etc.. etc.. but you know what I'm trying to say!!)  Okay, done with my little schpeel (sp?) there.

Celebrated my century ride with some classic American t-ball at the park after an amazing
swim in the community swimming pool.  I'm loving these small heartland towns.

But the oasis wasn't done in Newton.  Today I got to ride to another one in the TINY town of Bazine, KS where Elaine and her husband Don have been hosting cyclists for eleven years!  One of the best things about this trip is getting to really experience the places I am riding through by the people who live there.   Like Dan, who at dinner is shoveling food into his mouth faster than I've ever seen, checking the farmer's weather report every two minutes.  55% humidity he shouts!  I've got to get out there!  He's cutting hay and won't be able to finish tonight if it gets much higher.  Out the door he flies.  The life of a farmer!

 I've had this philosophy when traveling abroad, but it is a new concept for me when thinking about my own country.  But it really is the best way to go anywhere.  I've got to meet the most amazing people, and Elaine and Don are in the books.  Even though they are aging, they still give so much to us bicyclists.  I not only was fed a great dinner and breakfast the next morning, but when I arrived she had freshly cut watermelon ready on the table.

Elaine and Dan, my wonderful hosts.  
They Have hosted more than 800 cyclists over the past eleven years

"How did you get involved with hosting cyclists?" I ask Elaine.
"Oh I was just seeing a lot of miserable looking bicyclists riding by and thought I could do something to help." she replies.


The end of open range - limestone fenceposts still line this area from when 
barbed wire came in and people started fencing in their property.  But there was no wood, so they
used limestone instead.  I can't even imagine the labor it took to do this


Yes, I am entering the stretch of long highway with not many services in between.  In fact our Adventure Cycling maps have an addenda with an update on this section that reads: "We are getting reports that services are becoming more scarce along the route.  Be advised to carry a couple days worth of food and water."  Temps are supposed to be in the 100's the next few days - I suspect I will be seeing some beautiful sunrises from the bicycle.




Loving these old windmills

the limestone fenceposts


A tornado shelter!

Lovin these mailboxes along the highway



MORE PHOTOS FROM NEWTON:


Tino and ruth signing the wall

The excitement of the racers!  Updating top 10 racer locations

Yum broadcasting live to the people tuning into the video feed for the race

A Newton tradition: Druber's Daylight donuts: Open at 11:30 PM!

11:30 PM: The line up starts! 



Monday, June 15, 2015

Days 35-39: We're off to see the Wizard!...errr.. I hope not!


"Nothing is impossible if you want it badly enough and if you have the imagination to dream and the energy to make your dreams come true." ~Osa Johnson


Day 36: Pittsburg, KS to Walnut, KS (28 miles)
Day 37: Walnut, KS to Chanute, KS (32.8 miles)
Day 38: Chanute, KS to Eureka, KS (63.7 miles)
Day 39: Eureka, KS to Newton, KS ( 77.7 miles )

Ear Worms: 
Simon & Garfunkl - Sound of Silence
Tanya Tucker - If Your Heart Ain't Busy Tonight
Lucinda Williams - Lafayette
Shortening Bread



Things I've learned about southeastern Kansas so far:

1.  It is really beautiful country
2.  It is not flat.
3. Busch Light has replaced Bud Light as the beer of choice on the roadside depository (although I must say that the actual trash on the roadway is next to nothing)


The wind is coming in straight from the south, a nice cross-wind that makes riding west a fun game.  Looking left, I can see the dark storm getting closer.   After taking a quick glance at the radar on my Weather Underground app I know I need to try and find some kind of covering pretty quick.  It's mind shift time.  Into triathlon peddling mode I go.  "Maybe I can outrun it." I think.  Ha!!!!!!  That's a good one Coty.  Pretty soon the wind is picking up pretty strong and the sprinkles start coming.  I've still had no luck in finding any place to pull over.  Now it's coming down pretty good and I pass a dirt road.  The next thing I know the rain is blowing sideways and I'm getting blown all over the place, not able to see any more than 15 feet in front of me.  Off the bike NOW.  I push the bike back to the dirt road, by this time completely drenched.  BOOM.  Thunder rolls through the sky.  "I don't know what to do!"  I say out loud, even though there is nobody there to hear me.  It is clear there is nowhere to go until this passes.  I drop my bike, take a deep breath, and crouch in a cornfield with my rain coat draped over my head, not that it did much good other than just made me feel a little invisible from any any lightening bolt out there looking for something to strike.  Ten minutes later it was over.  And I stepped out of the swimming pool because that might might as well have been where I was!  And then what do you do?  The only thing there is - hop on the bike in your sloshy shoes and keep biking!  But a quick glance at the radar and I could see another cell moving through.  Nope.  Not going to risk that again.  They say that third times the charm but it's also three strikes and you're out.

Well that was fun!

Shelby and Dustin and family - amazing Kansas generosity


Because this was actually the 2nd storm I got caught in on my way to Newton from Eureka Kansas.  About eight miles into my ride another storm came in and quickly drenched me.  Then the thunder came and a flash of lightening.  Fortunately I saw a house maybe a quarter a mile up the way, got to the place and knocked on the door asking if I could dry off on their porch.  What I ended up with was experiencing first hand the genuine hospitality that Kansas is so famous for here on the TransAm trail.  I was offered food and water and dry towels and hung out in their living room chatting until the storm passed.  I was even given the best souvenir so far.  A tank-top shirt designed by Shebly herself!  I was blown away by the Shelby and Dustin and their two kids kindness to a complete stranger muddy and wet on a bicycle.  And now I finally have that special shirt to remember this awesome and challenging face the elements day here in Kansas!!

But these experiences seem all to appropriate as I was already planning on dedicating this blog to some amazing women that weren't afraid of big challenges that I had the opportunity to learn about at the Martin and Osa Johnson safari museum in Chanute.  If you've looked at a couple of my mileages from the past few days you probably noticed that a few of them were kind of low.  I've been forced to slow a bit due to waiting for a package being sent from Ortlieb to Newton to fix my busted pannier.  (I've got a nice duct tape / bunjee chord set up going on for the past week)   But it's been a great exercise in taking it easy.  About remembering why I'm on this tour.  In doing exactly what Willy Weir said: slow down and get to know the places you're cycling through.  So I got to enjoy a great community lunch at the Immanuel Lutheran Church just outside of Walnut.  And then I to spend an afternoon in Chanute and learn about these amazing women.  I got to see how Osa had no fear about treking with Martin to all places on the globe, them becoming some of the first wildlife filmmakers in the 1910's through 30's, setting the standard for generations of outdoor filmmakers to come.  I got to see the personal photographs of Lizzie Le Blond, one of the first women documentary filmmakers.  See her defy all odds and go bicycle touring and trek mountains and break ice skating records, all in her Victorian dresses.


Lizzie LeBlond 
"I owe a supreme debt of gratitude to the mountains for knocking from me the shackles of conventionality, but I had to struggle hard for my freedom."


Martin and Osa Johnson


(I took a bunch of photos of these people and info on them.  Scroll down for more and/or read more about them here:
Martin and Osa Johnson:
http://www.safarimuseum.com/

Lizzie LeBlond
http://womensmuseumofireland.ie/articles/elizabeth-lizzie-le-blond--2


And boy, I was I thinking about them today.  Huddled in that cornfield I just thought about Lizzie and her bravery scaling mountains and Osa and how she went fearlessly into the African jungles for months on end.  What a great way to start the 2nd half of this ride.  I'm halfway across the country!! I'm here at the "Oasis in the Desert" at Newton Bike Shop after taking an amazing rest day here at the best hostel ever.  And now I have these amazing women to inspire me as I head into the "grass desert."  Several hundred miles straight into the west.  Let's do this!

MORE PHOTOS:







First cyclists I've seen heading east!  From Siberia and China!  Started in San Francisco and heading across the country then to South America!

Immanuel Lutheran Church - great place to take a rest and community lunch


















First Transamerica riders I've met heading east! Michael and Ludwig from Germany

Portrait of a dead town: Toronto, KS - every store downtown was closed except one: the liquor store

Following the yellow brick road.... to the bathroom

McKaylie and I made cookies at our cyclist guest house in Eureka!

The cows get very, very interested in you if you stop for long.....



Never know what town you will pass through...

We like these signs