One woman's 4000 mile solo bicycle tour across the country from Yorktown, VA to Seattle, WA via the Transamerica and Northern Tier bike routes

***disclaimer: I am riding my bicycle. If I think about grammar, spellings, run-on sentences etc... I will never write this blog. Forgive me in advance....***

Wednesday, July 8, 2015

Days 55-63: Incredible Wyoming and the value of friendship

Day 55: Hot Sulpher Springs (ish), CO to Walden, CO (54 miles)
Day 56: Walden, CO to Riverside, WY (50 miles)
Day 57: Riverside, WY to Rawlins, WY (62 miles)
Day 58: Rawlins, WY to Jeffrey City, WY (68 miles)
Day 59: Jeffrey City, WY to Lander, WY (58 miles)
Day 60: Lander, WY to Dubois, WY (75 miles)
Day 61: Dubois, WY to 8 miles east of Moran, WY (48 miles)
Day 62: east of Moran to Signal Mountain Campground, Grand Teton National Park (15.7 miles)
Day 63: rest day at the campground





Ear Worms:
Van Morrison: Into the Mystic
Carol King: So Far Away
Celine Dion: It's All Coming Back (thanks so much Brigid, although technically I know I started it)
Bob Seeger - Against The Wind
Aretha Franklin - Riding on the Freeway
Bonnie Raitt - Dimming of the Day
Martha Scanlan - The West was Burning and Up on the Divide
Ferron - ... can't remember the name of the song or really any of the words, just got the melody and her voice...
Alanis Morissette - You Learn
Little Big Town - Tornado
Eagles - Lying Eyes
"Angeline the Baker"
Gladiator Theme Song
my high school fight song "Onward Granite"
Dire Straits - So Far Away from me
Bon Jovi - Wanted Dead or Alive
"Let's Go Fly a Kite" from Mary Poppins

Bonnie Tyler - It's A Heartache

Well goodness, I've had a veritable radio going on in my head haven't I?!





ALSO: I know a lot of days have past.  If you would like to know more of what I've been up to.. plus a bit of good humor.. check out Dana and McKaylie's blog!  There's some gem photos of me there too........  Scroll down to day 58 and go from there! 
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=tS&doc_id=15438&v=1Ck


After taking a couple of rest days with friends, I thought it would be hard to get back going on the bike again, but actually it was a pretty easy transition back to the touring life.  Maybe this was helped by the fact that I ran into Dana and McKaylie less than an hour into my ride, and we've been together ever since.  While we usually cycle seperately during the day, we meet up at our destination and share wherever we are planning on staying.  It's been really fun to hang out with them - we giggle a lot, joke about the are respective mosquito stores (yes, again they are turning into tall tale fish stores), and just plain share our biking experience together.


this is what happens when you bike too long


OH WYOMING.  Goodness gracious my Montana neighbor to the south.  I had no idea.  At least I had no idea about the area we've been cycling through.  Every single day I've been blown away by the landscape.  It's so vast and so vivid in colors and geology.  The sagebrush green, the clay red, the grays and browns and sky blue.  The signs of huge geologic activity from eons ago, now visible after thousands of years of erosion has exposed the colorful rock.  Some unexpected mix of southern Utah and high Rockies mountain scene.  And then throw in the pioneer history, the Oregon Trail, the Pony Express, the Overland Trail.  One night, as the sun was setting I just went out and looked into the vastness and the setting sun and feeling the wind blow at my back.  The swaying grass.  The stillness.  And I thought about those pioneers who had traveled out here.  All those pioneer women and how tough they had to be.  And they were all with me in that moment. It's like I could really see those wagon trains right there. 



SCENE:
So Lander:  Wild West town free-for-all of wonderfulness.  Headquarters to NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) and the world's oldest paid rodeo!  Combine those two and you have one perfect mix of people in a town of 7,000.  I feel a closeness with this town, because it was where my mom first came out west to do a NOLS trip back in the '70's.  It's also where she tried to move afterwards, but couldn't find work.  ("Just think Coty, if I had found a job there, you might not have been born." ... glad she didn't!)  
We landed here on the 4th of July, which pretty much I'm sure is the craziest place to be for that day.  Because all fireworks are allowed in the city.  Which means I'm pretty sure the residents take this fact up with pride and could probably all have way fancier cars with the dollars they spend on these things.  Which means after you've been up at the rodeo and seen the city fireworks from up there, you ride you're bike down the hill and through the city back to your warm showers host's house through pretty much a wild west explosion.  Seriously, I was just laughing because at the whole thing.   When I got back, McKaylie asked if I still had all my hair (as in did it get singed off)!   


rodeo time
and that was just one house...


SCENE:
Jeffrey City, WY: 
Population 1982: 6000
Population 2015: 50

I open up the ghost towns of Wyoming book and what do I see?  Jeffrey City.  I'm staying in a ghost town.  
Incredible to really see the bust of a boom town. There is one bar/cafe that has stayed alive, the gathering of locals, where tonight I honestly felt like I was in a movie.  The waitress was "out for awhile" so the locals just took over, getting whatever they wanted behind the counter, checking themselves out, including for me.  Drunk woman over at the jukebox jamming out with herself.  Waitress back now but in the back room with two guys working on getting a sliver out of her foot, she making sounds like she's having a baby.  Young mother and smart daughter come in for snacks and cold drinks renovating a house to move out here.  Guys sitting around smoking and drinking, young son with his knife around his waist, learning the ways of the world.  Taxidermy with locals' hats on them and the wall.   This place.  The forgotten - but in a good way.  






SCENE:
I'm cycling from Lander to Dubois, post 4th of July.  It's a socked in day and the rain is starting to settle in.  And headwind.  And it's a 3000 foot gradual elevation gain the whole way.  I pull into the Crowheart general store, having managed 40 miles already of the 75 mile day where Dana, McKaylie, and Brother Dave (another cyclist) have already arrived,  "Phew, that was tough," I say.  The headwinds are really having their way with me today, and I'm about ready to call it a day.  We had heard that in a bind, the volunteer fire department building (the only other building there) would host cyclists.  Fortunately, Dana and McKaylie offer to let me ride behind them.. they don't create much of a draft due to them pulling a trailer, but at least it would be a little blockage from the wind.  I happily say yes.  And so we ride the last 35 miles to Dubois, my day saved.  It's maybe 50% the blocking of the wind and 50% just a mental shift and having something to keep up with, but my day is turned around, we laugh at how wet we are getting, stop to stretch our legs, and 35 miles later, pull into Dubois, giddy with the excitement that we had just accomplished a pretty tough day.  And then to top it off, we got to sleep in a cozy little cabin at the KOA and watch the US Women's Soccer Team win the world cup!  Nothing like watching that for some extra inspiration! 

my view for 35 miles... Bessie Bob Barker!

mmmm..... pie and a cozy cabin



SCENE:
We had seen the signs for the Thai restaurant as we made our peddle push down the only 12 miles of interstate we had to cycle this whole trip.  Thai food!  In a town on the Transamerica!  We had to go. But when evening rolled around we could see a big storm rolling in.  Can me we make it?  Yes we can we decide.  But by the time we got out of the hotel, the wind was really blowing.  We peddled so hard, rain drips coming and lightening flashing and thunder booming.  Dana  and McKaylie were pushing the tandem so hard they dropped their chain twice!  We grinded up the hill - just barely getting to the Thai place before it really unleashed - even some hail!   
And so we enjoyed the best Thai food, just laughing with giddyness, so much adrenaline running through us.  All as the rain and hail and wind unleashed itself outside.  And then, just as we finished eating, so did the storm, and we cycled over to the park to enjoy an outdoor concert and a little mini carnival! Not a bad day at all.

And so a week has past and I have riden through Colorado and almost all of Wyoming. Hard to believe that I have just about cycled through seven states, three mountain ranges, seen accent changes and store changes (goodbye Dollar General!)  I've gone from never having done a bicycle tour to comfortably biking 60-70 miles for multiple days.  I'm coming up on the end of my solo trip, which is so hard to believe.  Brigid will be joining me near Jackson and we'll head on up into Yellowstone together, so right now I am hanging out at the campground, waiting for her to arrive.  I said goodbye to Dana and McKaylie this morning, which was hard for all of us I think.  We've had an incredible couple of months leapfrogging each other, and this past week has been really special.  Now I will spend the day mentally shifting into another adventure mode.  It's going to be a different experience for sure, but two months out here doing my own thing is plenty good, don't you think?   And so the adventure continues.

MORE PHOTOS


View  leaving Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado

not one but three moose!

and a nice close up..

a cool dike! (hardened rock from volcanic activity)

Top of willow creek pass.. just one of the already five crossings of the divide I"ve done



some riding shots (Thanks Anne!)


 literally enter Wyoming and cue the antelope!

 Gonna miss riding with this one!

just adding to the list of world's biggest etc.. etc..

John - WALKING from Maine to San Francisco
averages 30-40 miles A DAY!

because Muddy Gap has the best gas station ever.. 

so much pioneer history around here


Split Rock.. a welcome view for those thousands who ventured out 
on the Oregon Trail


our cozy cabin.. getting dry!

crossing over Togwatee Pass and into the incredible rocky peaks around 
Jackson Hole

and just to prove the point

oh yeah, can't forget the Jackalopes!

A South African couple.. doing the Great Divide mountain bike ride..
(goes all the way from north to south of country)
first time in the country too!

two signs I like to see!

 our campsite in the Grand Teton National Park

I think our eyes got the best of us....fits right into the Teton range









Monday, June 29, 2015

Days 48-54: High on a Mountain Top!

48: Pueblo, CO to Canon City, CO (50.9 miles)
49: Canon City, CO to Guffey, CO (32.1 miles)
50: Guffey, CO to Alma, CO (52.3 miles)
51: Alma, CO to Frisco, CO (29.2 miles)
52: Frisco, CO to Hot Sulpher Springs, CO (65.1 miles)
53: REST DAY in ESTES PARK
54: REST DAY IN ESTES PARK (hike excursion in Rocky Mountain National Park)

Feeling pretty great!  Highest point on the trail!

Ear Worms:
Kansas – Carry On My Wayward Son
Rockwell – Somebody’s Watching Me
Loretta Lynn – High on a Mountain Top

Oh dear!  I've let so much happen since my last post!  (Maybe that's why I haven't had time to write a post!)

So where to start? I'm taking a couple of rest days with friends from music camp, Anne and Teresa, in Estes Park before making the last part of my solo trip before my friend Brigid meets me in Jackson, WY where we will ride the rest of the ride together. SO NICE to really take some time off to relax and hang out and play some music... and see an incredibly beautiful place right here up against the Rocky Mountain National Park.  Already got to see a moose and several bull elk with their velvet and a little baby calf elk and of course several deer.  Took a really nice little hike to Alberta Falls and Blue Lake and just took some time to finish up some work that was starting to weigh on my mind a little.  Now I can start into the last month of this trip with a truly present mind.  I'm entering the really familiar territory now, so I just want to keep the "curiosity and sense of wonder lens" as I ride through it.  For example, riding from Kremmling to Hot Sulpher Springs I could have sworn I had been teleported right back to my home area in Montana.  It was a little uncanny actually.   And it could have been easy for me to just zone out, think I’m back in a place where I grew up.. to loose my exploring mind.  But I’m not going to do that!


Mountain west life


So I can tell you about how I gasped and got really excited at the first site of the snow peaked mountains when I reached the top of a little climb out of Canon City to the Royal Gorge.  How immediately I felt at home seeing those mountains.  How something in me just relaxed a little and felt at ease and comfortable.  Even Indian Paintbrushes, my favorite flower in the whole world, dotted the landscape!

First glimpse of the Rockies - my happy place.

Or I could tell you how I had my first real descend over my head, a requirement amongst all touring cyclists, from Hartsel to Fairplay when not only was my mind in a bad state, but I also was dealing with 16 mph head/cross winds and a highway with no shoulder and drivers who apparently did not want me to be there!  It was the strangest thing to feel this foul mood and pretty intense anger!  I kind of felt like I wasn’t myself, but thankfully I’ve read enough blogs to know that this really happens to most touring cyclists at least once on their trip if not more. I’m lucky it only lasted 17 miles!  I finally just told myself to get myself together, start peddling and get these last five miles done!  Good thing too because as I got into Fairplay (yes this is the town that inspired the creation of South Park), it started raining and the wind picked up to something wicked!

But I could also tell you how I climbed my way up to the highest point on the entire Transamerica Trail.  To the top of Hoosier’s pass at 11,500+ feet!  While not nearly the hardest climb of the trip  (what did I tell you about the Appalachians?), it was certainly one of the more satisfying.  Just to hang out up there, with these beautiful snow covered peaks surrounding me, eating an apple and really feeling this sense of accomplishment, not only at reaching this particular point, but also having cycled my way from sea level in Virginia, though two whole mountain ranges, the high plains, different cultural environments, and plenty a tiny town.   Thinking about all the amazing people on this journey who had helped me get to that point, both directly on the trail and from afar.  It was a proud moment for sure.


Loving the green and snow peaked mountains

And I could also tell you about the amazing Warm Showers hosts I've had.  Like Marie and Peter, who hosted me at the last minute in Alma, highest incorporated town in the United States!  (Yep, I can check that off the list!) Feeding me and giving me a comfy bed before my big climb to Hoosier's pass.    Or Geff and Mary Anne, hosts extraordinaire.  Touring cyclists for 25 years, they not only hosted me, but three other cyclists. We stayed up late sharing all our stories from the road.  Overall thing we agreed on: bicycle touring will 100% restore your faith in humanity. The kindness and generosity all of us had experienced on the road was incredible.  And Geff and Mary Ann are giving back in a pretty amazing way. (Yes, I got to enjoy a hot tub soak!)

Geff and Mary Ann - hosts extraordinaire!

But what I really want to tell you about if a little tiny town tucked away, unseen by most of the rest of the world.  I want to tell you about Guffey, Colorado.


You know you've come to the right place when the sign announcing the name of the town
is shared with a bicycle!






Guffey, Colorado.  Population maybe 50?  (Okay Wikipedia says the last census had it at 98.)  Speaking of Wikipedia, here is what it says about Guffey:

“Guffey has received publicity for electing animals as mayors of the town, although such an office does not officially exist. According to local folklore, the two main political parties in Guffey are called the "Democats" and the "Repuplicans". The last known Mayor of Guffey was a cat named Monster[4] (elected in 1998).

The town is perhaps less famous for its annual Fourth of July Chicken Fly,[5] during which chickens were ejected from a mailbox atop a ten-foot-high (3.04 m) platform; prizes were awarded for distance.[6] The last year for the event was 2011.”

And yes, that Chicken Fly was the brainchild of Bill Soux, who I’m pretty sure single handedly saved Guffey from becoming a ghost town.  Bill has restored all the old buildings in town, some now converted to sleeping places for people like me.  (I was put in the bunkhouse which used to be the gold assay office.)  He is one of the most creative, totally independent, unique people I have met.  He and his helper Dan hang out at the “Guffey Garage,” his work place and when you come by they sit you down by the fire, old western movies playing on the fuzzy TV, offer you beer from the “Guffey Historical Beer Fund fridge”  (too bad I don’t like beer) and just chat and tell stories with you.  They then send you down to the Freshwater Saloon where Judy will treat you right, getting you good food, conversation with all the locals, and just a general good time. 



The Guffey Garage - yes I got to take a ride in that car!


Guffey was just a gem of a place that I really didn’t know still existed.  No cell service.  Just a handful of really amazing people that welcome you to this tiny little town with two little streets running parallel to each other, in between them all the crazy buildings and artwork that Bill has created all these years. 

And I never would have known about this place had I not been taken there on the seat of my bicycle.  There’s a whole lot of pretty amazing America to be seen and experienced!

***you will now see a ton more pictures from the past few days.  To see more photos of the amazing Guffey, just keep scrolling to the end!


MORE PHOTOS FROM THE PAST FEW DAYS




got to Fairplay just in time!  The wind started whipping and rain falling pretty good!

Another check off the list!  Fairplay: burro capitol of the world!




And another!  North America's highest bar!


Loved the bike highway in the North Park area

Back down in Canon City - the Arkansas River a-raging with 
all the snowmelt.  Record flow!

Beautiful memorial to a fallen cowboy







MORE GUFFEY PHOTOS 



























Minitures houses where people can sleep

yes I got to ride in that thing :-)