One woman's 4000 mile solo bicycle tour across the country from Yorktown, VA to Seattle, WA via the Transamerica and Northern Tier bike routes

***disclaimer: I am riding my bicycle. If I think about grammar, spellings, run-on sentences etc... I will never write this blog. Forgive me in advance....***

Monday, June 29, 2015

Days 48-54: High on a Mountain Top!

48: Pueblo, CO to Canon City, CO (50.9 miles)
49: Canon City, CO to Guffey, CO (32.1 miles)
50: Guffey, CO to Alma, CO (52.3 miles)
51: Alma, CO to Frisco, CO (29.2 miles)
52: Frisco, CO to Hot Sulpher Springs, CO (65.1 miles)
53: REST DAY in ESTES PARK
54: REST DAY IN ESTES PARK (hike excursion in Rocky Mountain National Park)

Feeling pretty great!  Highest point on the trail!

Ear Worms:
Kansas – Carry On My Wayward Son
Rockwell – Somebody’s Watching Me
Loretta Lynn – High on a Mountain Top

Oh dear!  I've let so much happen since my last post!  (Maybe that's why I haven't had time to write a post!)

So where to start? I'm taking a couple of rest days with friends from music camp, Anne and Teresa, in Estes Park before making the last part of my solo trip before my friend Brigid meets me in Jackson, WY where we will ride the rest of the ride together. SO NICE to really take some time off to relax and hang out and play some music... and see an incredibly beautiful place right here up against the Rocky Mountain National Park.  Already got to see a moose and several bull elk with their velvet and a little baby calf elk and of course several deer.  Took a really nice little hike to Alberta Falls and Blue Lake and just took some time to finish up some work that was starting to weigh on my mind a little.  Now I can start into the last month of this trip with a truly present mind.  I'm entering the really familiar territory now, so I just want to keep the "curiosity and sense of wonder lens" as I ride through it.  For example, riding from Kremmling to Hot Sulpher Springs I could have sworn I had been teleported right back to my home area in Montana.  It was a little uncanny actually.   And it could have been easy for me to just zone out, think I’m back in a place where I grew up.. to loose my exploring mind.  But I’m not going to do that!


Mountain west life


So I can tell you about how I gasped and got really excited at the first site of the snow peaked mountains when I reached the top of a little climb out of Canon City to the Royal Gorge.  How immediately I felt at home seeing those mountains.  How something in me just relaxed a little and felt at ease and comfortable.  Even Indian Paintbrushes, my favorite flower in the whole world, dotted the landscape!

First glimpse of the Rockies - my happy place.

Or I could tell you how I had my first real descend over my head, a requirement amongst all touring cyclists, from Hartsel to Fairplay when not only was my mind in a bad state, but I also was dealing with 16 mph head/cross winds and a highway with no shoulder and drivers who apparently did not want me to be there!  It was the strangest thing to feel this foul mood and pretty intense anger!  I kind of felt like I wasn’t myself, but thankfully I’ve read enough blogs to know that this really happens to most touring cyclists at least once on their trip if not more. I’m lucky it only lasted 17 miles!  I finally just told myself to get myself together, start peddling and get these last five miles done!  Good thing too because as I got into Fairplay (yes this is the town that inspired the creation of South Park), it started raining and the wind picked up to something wicked!

But I could also tell you how I climbed my way up to the highest point on the entire Transamerica Trail.  To the top of Hoosier’s pass at 11,500+ feet!  While not nearly the hardest climb of the trip  (what did I tell you about the Appalachians?), it was certainly one of the more satisfying.  Just to hang out up there, with these beautiful snow covered peaks surrounding me, eating an apple and really feeling this sense of accomplishment, not only at reaching this particular point, but also having cycled my way from sea level in Virginia, though two whole mountain ranges, the high plains, different cultural environments, and plenty a tiny town.   Thinking about all the amazing people on this journey who had helped me get to that point, both directly on the trail and from afar.  It was a proud moment for sure.


Loving the green and snow peaked mountains

And I could also tell you about the amazing Warm Showers hosts I've had.  Like Marie and Peter, who hosted me at the last minute in Alma, highest incorporated town in the United States!  (Yep, I can check that off the list!) Feeding me and giving me a comfy bed before my big climb to Hoosier's pass.    Or Geff and Mary Anne, hosts extraordinaire.  Touring cyclists for 25 years, they not only hosted me, but three other cyclists. We stayed up late sharing all our stories from the road.  Overall thing we agreed on: bicycle touring will 100% restore your faith in humanity. The kindness and generosity all of us had experienced on the road was incredible.  And Geff and Mary Ann are giving back in a pretty amazing way. (Yes, I got to enjoy a hot tub soak!)

Geff and Mary Ann - hosts extraordinaire!

But what I really want to tell you about if a little tiny town tucked away, unseen by most of the rest of the world.  I want to tell you about Guffey, Colorado.


You know you've come to the right place when the sign announcing the name of the town
is shared with a bicycle!






Guffey, Colorado.  Population maybe 50?  (Okay Wikipedia says the last census had it at 98.)  Speaking of Wikipedia, here is what it says about Guffey:

“Guffey has received publicity for electing animals as mayors of the town, although such an office does not officially exist. According to local folklore, the two main political parties in Guffey are called the "Democats" and the "Repuplicans". The last known Mayor of Guffey was a cat named Monster[4] (elected in 1998).

The town is perhaps less famous for its annual Fourth of July Chicken Fly,[5] during which chickens were ejected from a mailbox atop a ten-foot-high (3.04 m) platform; prizes were awarded for distance.[6] The last year for the event was 2011.”

And yes, that Chicken Fly was the brainchild of Bill Soux, who I’m pretty sure single handedly saved Guffey from becoming a ghost town.  Bill has restored all the old buildings in town, some now converted to sleeping places for people like me.  (I was put in the bunkhouse which used to be the gold assay office.)  He is one of the most creative, totally independent, unique people I have met.  He and his helper Dan hang out at the “Guffey Garage,” his work place and when you come by they sit you down by the fire, old western movies playing on the fuzzy TV, offer you beer from the “Guffey Historical Beer Fund fridge”  (too bad I don’t like beer) and just chat and tell stories with you.  They then send you down to the Freshwater Saloon where Judy will treat you right, getting you good food, conversation with all the locals, and just a general good time. 



The Guffey Garage - yes I got to take a ride in that car!


Guffey was just a gem of a place that I really didn’t know still existed.  No cell service.  Just a handful of really amazing people that welcome you to this tiny little town with two little streets running parallel to each other, in between them all the crazy buildings and artwork that Bill has created all these years. 

And I never would have known about this place had I not been taken there on the seat of my bicycle.  There’s a whole lot of pretty amazing America to be seen and experienced!

***you will now see a ton more pictures from the past few days.  To see more photos of the amazing Guffey, just keep scrolling to the end!


MORE PHOTOS FROM THE PAST FEW DAYS




got to Fairplay just in time!  The wind started whipping and rain falling pretty good!

Another check off the list!  Fairplay: burro capitol of the world!




And another!  North America's highest bar!


Loved the bike highway in the North Park area

Back down in Canon City - the Arkansas River a-raging with 
all the snowmelt.  Record flow!

Beautiful memorial to a fallen cowboy







MORE GUFFEY PHOTOS 



























Minitures houses where people can sleep

yes I got to ride in that thing :-)




Monday, June 22, 2015

Days 43-47: Skyscrapers in the great high plains

Day 43: Bazine, KS to Scott City, KS (67.8 miles)
Day 44: Scott City, SK to Sheridan Lake, CO (78.0 miles)
Day 45: Sheridan Lake, CO to Eads, CO (28.5 - okay I was exhausted!  Actually fell alseep on a picnic table accidentally that day)
Day 46: Eads, CO to Ordway, CO (63.1 miles)
Day 47: Ordway, CO to Pueblo, CO (51.4 miles)

Remnants of the past


Ear Worms:
Dixie Chicks - Wide Open Spaces
She'll Be Coming Around the Mountain
Aerosmith - Don't Wanna Miss A Thing
Romeo & Juliet (okay, this was unfortunate because I had the Indigo Girls version, which is one of the few songs they do that I do not enjoy... was really trying to get Dire Straits version in my head, but to no avail)
Miley Cyrus - Wrecking Ball
Bruce Springsteen - Secret Garden


Hello, sun on my face
Hello, you who make the morning
and spread it over the fields
and into the faces of the tulips
and the nodding morning glories,
and into the windows of, even, the
miserable and the crotchety - 

best preacher that ever was,
dear star, that just happens
to be where you are in the universe
to keep us from ever-darkness,
to ease us with warm touching,
to hold us in the great hands of light - 
good morning, good morning, good morning

Watch, now, how I start the day in happiness, in kindness
                                                                                                ~Mary Oliver


Well, I'm going to have to say right up front.  This is going to be a mostly picture blog post because I'm exhausted, but I wanted to get a post out before officially HEADING NORTH INTO THE ROCKIES!  I'm here in Pueblo, CO and tomorrow I will officially start heading into the Rockies.  Two days ago, heading into Ordway I caught my first glimpse of them, the hazy silhouette of Pike's Peak off in the distance.  And now I sitting right up against them!

Wide Open Spaces


Since I last wrote, I've still been cycling, cycling, cycling on Highway 96.  About 400 miles of cycling to be exact.  It wasn't the boring that I had heard everyone talk about.  In fact, I absolutely loved everything about Kansas.  It's beautiful.  It's not flat!! I loved the huge expanse of the sky, the rolling wheat fields, the farm equipment rolling past, like something out of Star  Wars.  I loved the people I met:  the generous ones that let me into their homes and the kids with their lemonade stands.  I loved the old windmills, many times sitting by an abandoned old house, remnants of another time.   I loved the old grain co-ops, the skyscrapers of the great high plains, signaling the presence of a town from miles away.  Kansas was amazing.  It just goes to show not to judge a book by hearsay.  You got to get out and experience something and form your own opinion.  

Grain co-op: a staple in every little town 
Skyscrapers of the great high plains


Now eastern Colorado..... well.  It was tough.  About 15 miles from the border, the winds changed.  I had been blessed with wonderful tailwinds through most of Kansas.  And then, well there wasn't.  Combine a wind blowing at you with triple digit heat and you got a challenge.  You also have an alarm clock.  Because I have been getting up very, very early.  It's the only option really, unless you want to roast in the heat.  It also means that I've had some time to hang out in the little towns I pass through.  Eads was particularly nice.  A town of 600 with a community pool, softball game happening, and one awesome little movie theater!  So I took advantage and saw a movie!  (Spy - which I found quite funny even though there was a Beaches reference which was just slightly uncomfortable because it may have hit a little close to home. If you have seen the movie and know my love for Beaches, you will know what I am talking about.  If you have not seen the movie, well I will leave you wondering.)

 Oh yeah, and then there was thing about flesh eating biting flies disguised as regular houseflies.  Oh wow, nasty creatures.  I just want you to picture this for a moment.  Me stopping to take a drink of water.  Immediately my legs are black with these man eating flies swarming my legs.  I scream and start peddling.  And they CHASE ME.  I'm yelling at them like I am back in eastern Kentucky in a dog chase.  I'm slapping my legs and arms till they are red!  Wow, be thankful you don't have these things to deal with.  They also make it problematic to go to the bathroom out of doors.........

Lights out in Eads, CO - heading home after the movie


But now I am in Pueblo.  On to a completely different chapter of this journey.  In Eads they had a billboard marking the halfway point on the Transamerica.  It's pretty incredible really,what one can do when you put your mind to it!

 PHOTOS:
Goodbye Kansas - you were surprisingly wonderful to bike through

 Officially in the mountain west now

You never now what you'll find on this ride

Cute little cafe find in Sugar City, population 200

My neighbor for the evening in Ordway.  Stayed at the famous Gillian's place: A New Zealander living on an amazing animal farm.  She spent five years sailing all around the world in a sailboat!

Halfway!

Cute little theater and 100 degree yet.  Why yes, I think I will see a movie!

Graffitti barn

Small town America. 

Life on the open road

Beloved lemonade stands.  Lemonade has seemed to have replaced the milkshake craving